New Orleans is both a vibrant 21st century major seaport and one of America’s most historic and unique cities. Having had family live there on several occasions, I first saw New Orleans when I was 12 years old. I was especially taken with the St. Louis Cemetery with its above ground graves reminiscent of campfire ghost stories and French inscriptions that made me glad I did my homework. I was thrilled to see where Nancy Drew had bravely solved the crime of “The Haunted Showboat” and searched for modern criminals lurking in “Pirates Alley.”
Later, when I was a college student visiting family in the summer, I had a different perspective, spending hours seeing performers at the Brulatour Courtyard and taking free rides on the Mississippi River Ferry. I was especially intrigued to cross the 23.83-mile Lake Pontchartrain Bridge, the longest bridge in the world with its own cloverleaf turn suspended high above the water.
It is one of the most “foreign” cities in the US, as its architecture and history bear little resemblance to the US coastline or heartland. From the time of the 16th century Hernando Cortez, the Spanish and later the French traded back and forth as the dominant colonial power in the region. New Orleans later became part of the US after Jefferson’s Louisiana Purchase in the early 19th century.
Jean Baptist Le Moyne de Bienville of Montreal is credited with founding New Orleans in the previous century. Cajun settlers, mainly from eastern Canada, followed when the Mississippi River became a major trade route to the delta. His early American fame dates in large part to the oft-forgotten War of 1812. Although the Treaty of Ghent had officially ended the war, Gen. Subsequently, Andrew Jackson led his troops to a decisive American victory over the British. It is now commemorated by a life-size statue that dominates the legendary Jackson Square in the heart of the French Quarter. Andrew Jackson now directly faces St. Louis Cathedral, the oldest cathedral in North America and a key sight in the Quarter.
This multifaceted city has also been famous for its annual Mardi Gras, nightlife on Bourbon Street, world-class cuisine, and being the birthplace of jazz. Plus, it boasts serenely elegant antebellum homes and nearby swamps lined with cypress trees covered in Spanish moss. Flooding during Hurricane Katrina was heartbreaking as New Orleans’ location on the Mississippi River made it vulnerable to heavy flooding.
For tourists, New Orleans has four distinct sectors to visit: 1. The French Quarter or “Vieux Carre” (the “Old Square”), 2. Garden District, 3. Elegant antebellum homes, and 4. Bayous.
The French Quarter is the heart of both historic New Orleans and its much-hyped nightlife. Revelers can start their evening by trying a rum drink from a Pat O’Brien’s Hurricane Glass. Right next door, for authentic local jazz, the best place has always been Preservation Hall, though it was closed for some time after Katrina.
From Jackson Square, it’s a short walk to the 24/7 Café du Monde, offering a strong cup of coffee and their famous beignets. As you stroll through the neighborhood, you can see a jazz funeral making its way through the streets. For more traditional interests and shopping, Royal Street is lined with the best antique shops. Also in Royal, the Brulatour House is in the process of becoming a French Quarter museum. Aside from the fame of his family’s home at 520 Royal, Pierre Brulatour was one of the founders of Universal Pictures and possibly Orson Welles’ inspiration for Citizen Kane. At the foot of Royal Street is the luxurious Hotel Monteleone, family owned since the 19th century.
Their colorful aboveground cemeteries or “Cities of the Dead” are necessary due to the low sea level/high water table. With inscriptions in French, the tombs tell a story of their own. A short distance from the Quarter is the most famous, the St. Louis Cemetery.
Moving on to the Garden District, the elegant homes are surrounded by ornate wrought-iron fences. I especially loved one of those interlocking fences with metal representations of yellow ears of corn. The St. Charles Trolley provides easy access from downtown New Orleans. (The “Street Named Desire” made famous by Tennessee Williams has now become less poetically the “Bus Named Desire”.) One of the most famous haunts in the Garden District is a longtime New Orleans upscale restaurant, Commander’s Palace, owned by the Brenan family. My first memory was going to lunch on the patio while being greeted by a squawking toucan perched inside a tall white Victorian birdcage, while more recently I was sitting on the (thankfully) enclosed patio watching a torrential downpour. It’s one of the New Orleans restaurants with real staying power as previous leaders like Antoine’s, Arnaud’s and Galatoire’s are being overshadowed by newcomers. In any case, seafood, especially with a Cajun flavor, tops the local menu favorites. My personal preference is the crayfish (say “crayfish”) Etoufee.
Next on the tour should be the elegant pre-war houses outside the city. The Ormond Plantation and at least 11 others prospered from the growth of cotton and trade along the Mississippi River. Lastly, New Orleans is famous as the swamp country. Those local swamps or marshes are a favorite of tourists looking to catch a glimpse of the local wildlife. Once inhabited by pirates, today it is home to perhaps equally dangerous denizens, alligators that can grow up to 18 feet and slithering snakes. Perhaps more welcoming are the myriad of turtles, colorful birds, and even the occasional bear.
The best times of year to go are spring and fall to avoid the humidity of summer or the cold of winter, the latter perhaps better tolerated by Sugar Bowl fans! Although New Orleans is most famous for its annual pre-Lenten Mardi Gras, spring brings both the popular Jazz Festival and the Annual Spring Bash and Historic Home Tour. As always, check out the off-season specials for the best solo travel prices and start your plans for the upcoming spring season.